Contrary to what the factory might tell you, an elementary tool kit will not be sufficient for you to complete this build (unless their idea of elementary is different from mine.) Following is a list of tools I have found to be useful during the build. I'll add more as I find a need for them.

• Screwdrivers - Short and long handle flat blade
• Allen (hex) wrenches - In metric sizes
• Box-end wrenches - Metric and standard sizes
• Crowbar - For unpacking the crate
• Hammer
• Socket wrench - You'll want a good assortment of standard and metric sockets as well
• Rubber mallet - Useful for installing the suspension, among other things
• Steel punch - For locating the rivet holes in the aluminum panels
• Power drill - With cobalt bits, for drilling rivet holes. You may also want a drill with a very short or angled head, for getting in to tight areas. The full-size power drill I have was too large to get some of the front bulkhead rivet holes, so I bought an air-powered angle drill, where the drill body is at a 90 degree angle to the head.
• Jig saw - With a fine-tooth metal cutting blade, for cutting the aluminum panels.
• Rivet gun - Hand or air-powered. I *strongly* recommend an air-powered one.
• Die grinder - Get a fluted metal-cutting bit, preferably a cylindrical one no less than 1/2" diameter. This won't gum up like the grinding stones, and unlike the pointed cutting bits, it will be easier to control when you have to make deep grinds. I use an air-powered die grinder, but you may be able to get away with a Dremel tool.
• Metal nibbler - I use an air-powered metal nibbler to quickly remove large irregularly-shaped areas from the aluminum skins. This is not strictly a necessary tool though.
• Rulers - 12" and a meter stick are handy.
• A square
• Black permanent marker
• Synthetic grease - For suspension fittings
• A caulk gun - For the adhesive/sealant used to bond the panels
• A torque wrench - Rated up to around 80 lb-ft or so. You'll need to make sure your sockets fit on it. I recommend the dial ones, rather than the angle guage style. The dial ones are more expensive, but also more precise.
• A plastic putty knife - For cleaning up sealant messes
• Brake cleaner
• WD-40
• A 2-ton hydraulic floor jack
• 2-ton sawhorses/build-up stands, OR 4 very sturdy racheting jack stands.
• A garage crawler - Handy if you have to work under the car
• A stool or rolling seat - Great when you are installing the wishbones and brakes
• A metal deburring tool
• A telescoping magnetic retriever - Ever drop a nut down into a place your fingers can't reach?
• Strong needle-nose pliers
• A wire brush and a normal brush
• A camera - Take pictures while you are doing your build, both for your own records and for the enjoyment of others.
• A lug wrench/tire iron
• Shop cloths
• Waterless hand cleaner
• Shop glasses
• Hearing protection (if you use air-powered tools)
• Dust masks - Absolutely necessary when you grind aluminum!
• A hand file - Great for finishing up the cuts made with the die grinder.
• A razor knife/carpet knife - For unpacking stuff and general cutting needs
• A stapler - For repackaging things after inventory
• Silicone sealant - For anything which needs to be waterproofed. I use Marine GOOP.

Remember, don't buy cheap hand tools. Get good wrenches, socket sets and screwdrivers. Cheap tools won't last, they will strip screws and nuts and generally don't end up really saving you anything. Spend the extra money to do it right.